The Sunday Circular, Volume 5: The Ties That Bind
Plus: a crucial update from a under-the-radar menswear legend.
This week I met with writer and all-around great guy
(subscribe to his newsletter!) for iced tea (wholesome!) at Corner Bar. He was gracious enough to give my story on Heartland Drag a read before I sent it out, and his notes and suggestions were immeasurably helpful. So, Alex, thank you.Beyond that, we were able to catch up on other happenings and goings-on, which reminded me of how vital it is to step away from the computer and engage with the “real” world, as it were, and, more importantly, with smart and interesting people. You learn so much.
For example, Alex revealed two fascinating things. The first was that he was gobsmacked and entranced by Jonathan Anderson’s debut Dior show. He went as far as saying that, while he was never a big fan of Anderson’s work at Loewe (too kooky, too erudite), he was now suddenly in the designer’s new-normal thrall! That he was inspired to buy—get this—the messenger bag featured in the show, the one covered in the label’s iconic Oblique motif. I actually didn’t remember said bag (it was the book totes and the tassel shoulder bags that loomed large in my mind), but I pulled up the Vogue Runway app, and, man, that messenger is really, really good. I know some people scoff at lots of logos, but not I! I want you to know I dropped coin on it.
Second, and relatedly, Alex told me … he bought a tie! Reader, my jaw hit the floor. Alex, like me, is a very casual dresser. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen him in a collared shirt before! So a tie, well, that felt like I was seeing the first hints of a profound, fundamental shift in the menswear firmament taking place. He sent me a photo of the tie—vintage Dior, sourced on eBay—and, well, it was great (smooth, sensual, gray). The synapses in my brain started FIRING. I texted
(at 11:55 pm) to see if he had any. “I have ties!” he wrote back, literally within the minute, accompanied by a mirror selfie of him wearing one, from J. Mueser.This sent me down an eBay wormhole, searching, seeking, probing its depths for vintage Dior ties, and there are many good options. I don’t think I’ll ever wear a tie, and yet, I felt an undeniable rush at seeing such a surfeit of excellent ones. Chocolate brown, paisley, groovy geometrics, polkadots, you name it! And at very palatable prices.
Vintage Dior Ties, prices vary, via eBay
Clockwise from top left: Monsieur gray and red silk tie, $14.95; Christian Dior brown stripe tie, $9.99; Dior 100% silk navy blue multi-print tie, $16.99; Christian Dior Monsieur geometric red tie, $19.99.
So my first little recommendation of the week is … a tie! But more than a specific tie, it is to go out and look for a tie, reconsider the tie, and spiritually align yourself with what it would mean to wear a tie. In fact, the tie was one of the central propositions from Anderson—worn backwards(!), or loosely done, wonkily askew, or only half-tucked into a collar. It had whiffs of awkward adolescence, the charms of a young boy in grown-up cosplay, which is a throughline in the designer’s oeuvre. Again, I will not literally be wearing a tie anytime soon, but I’ve decided, however, that I will channel the existential essence of tie-wearing this fall.
Patrik Ervell’s First Proenza Schouler Collection
About a year ago, the news leaked that New York label Proenza Schouler would be expanding into menswear and that the brand’s founders, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, had hired cult designer Patrik Ervell to take it on (Ervell’s LinkedIn says he started there in June 2024). The trio has a deep history, a lore that dates back to the mid-to-late aughts, when they and others, such as Scott Sternberg (then of Band of Outsiders) and the Rodarte sisters, were all prominent figures in the Opening Ceremony Cinematic Universe™. I looked back and realized I have been covering Ervell, in some form, since 2009! Back when Kirsten Dunst and Nicole Kidman would wear his tailoring, despite it technically being made for da boyz.
I digress. Ervell has since had stints at Vince and Cos before this current role. And this week, PS revealed his first designs in what they’re dubbing the “menswear capsule.” Despite it being a very tight edit, I’m happy to report he’s still got the sauce. It’s especially present in the easy black suit (blazer, $1,890; pants, $950) and handsome leather jacket ($3,590🫣). Funnily, in recent years, I’ve noticed that McCollough and Hernandez wear black, slightly loose suits themselves when attending more formal occasions. It looks great: effortless, Helmut Lang-y, a call-back to the uniform of cool, casual, downtown denizens of New York in the 90s. Ervell’s suit has made me, a notoriously suit-averse human, pine for one. And that leather coat is expensive as fuck but gorge nonetheless. Ever since I saw Pierpaolo Piccioli wearing the perfect leather coat to the Balenciaga couture show this summer, I have been on the hunt for one. Ervell’s is very much in that vein. It is, however, quite expensive. If only I could afford it …
My only note to the Proenza Schouler powers that be: Let the man cook! No more of this capsule nonsense, give me a full collection! Tout de suite!
Olivia Snow Ceramics x Maison Ko Pebble Lighter, $140
Do I have a reason to have a tabletop lighter in my home? No. Does that stop me from wanting one? Absolutely not. Well, I say absolve yourself from desiring things that only have a functional purpose. Free yourself of the prison that is practicality! Buy something just for shits and giggles, I say!
And it’s not entirely useless; it has aesthetic appeal, the most important appeal of all. It’s a ceramic objet that will enhance your life with its very presence. It has an Old World charm, like Clarke Gable might just stop by and whip out a cigar and, thank God, you’ll be able to offer him a light. Maybe you will pick up smoking as a habit! Bad for you, yes, but undeniably cool. Next up, a standing ashtray. Speaking of, that’s not merely a base the lighter sits atop, but its very own little ashtray. Smart design, we love it.
Emporio Armani Aviator Sunglasses, $154.70 from $221
This week, a cold snap settled over New York, a harbinger of change and a preview of what’s to come. Immediately, my mind went where any normal person’s mind goes—Nicole Kidman in Practical Magic. Obviously this image, in particular, has a chokehold on me, and so during the gloomy, gray front end of the week, I found myself again and again thinking of those evocative shades—wire-framed, elliptical (in both shape and spirit), with lenses that are tinted but not fully obscured. In other words, perfect for being a mysterious witch who’s causing trouble in a New England village, which is what I deeply aspire to be.
As fate would have it, smaller, wire-frame glasses are having a moment, a callback to the 90s, sure, but also a much-needed reprieve from the big, statement, darker styles that overwhelm the face. These are demure, intellectual, even sexy in their way. A must-have. Armani, naturally, has the essential pair.
Lacoste Longseleeve Polo, $32
When I worked at GQ, one of the most fascinating things to see was the way then-creative director Jim Moore dressed. I need not tell you the man is a legend, an icon, talented, brilliant, incredible, amazing, et al. He’s responsible for creating some of the most amazing photos in menswear history, and yet, at least when I was there, he pretty much wore a variation on the same thing every day: black suit, black polo (mostly, if not always, Lacoste), and black sneakers. Much like the way Grace Coddington was an all-black kinda gal.
That has stayed with me—the discipline, the focus, the bravery to step off the ever-maddening carousel of trend. And, let’s face it, there are few things better than a Lacoste polo: somehow both sporty and ceremonious, elegant yet relaxed. It’s humble cotton piqué, its preppy little collar, its friendly little chest logo. It’s an item of clothing so pure and right that it hasn’t been touched since it was invented by tennis player René Lacoste in 1933. I was looking at the Lacoste website, where you can obviously pick them up in a range of colors and sizes, but my little cursor eventually wandered over to Grailed, of all places. It seems to me that a weathered and worn-in one felt best (plus, easier on the wallet). There’s something a bit sad about a new one! I want one that has already lived a life. This one is gorgeous and patinated in just the right way. I’ve already low-balled this poor seller, and he didn’t bite, so maybe I’ll just give in and buy it like a normal person (which I’m not, but whatever).
Adizero Evo SL Running Shoes, $150
Why is it, in the year 2025 of our lord and savior, so hard to find a good running shoe that’s actually stylish? It’s shocking. I stick with my Hoka Cliftons, which perform well but leave me wanting more in the looks department.
While I don’t think they’re new, I’ve noticed an uptick in these Adidas runners at Barry’s and on these mean streets. I like what I’m seeing — the bold stripes, which come in fluorescent green for look-at-me types or mellower black-on-white and white-on-black versions, are distinctive without being overwrought. The blue-on-white has an old-school, retro vibe to it, which I like. I’ve been asking how they perform (yes, I’ll wave you down mid-run! Market research must be done!) and all signs point to … good (though two people noted that the toe box is narrow). I am intrigued to say the least. Will I get a pair? Unclear. But if I do, I will report back with a full review.
Vintage Realtree Camo Sweatshirt, $109
I once interviewed Kim Kardashian for a profile of her shapewear company, Skims, and found her a quite charming, magnetic subject. Despite this, I do think she’s an evil force in society. Still, even I have to admit she’s savvy as fuck, and surrounds herself with very cunning people. This push-and-pull is best expressed by the fact that I’m drawn to Skims products, despite my feelings about her. In fact, I have a pajama set from the brand that I really like (bought as “research” for the story). This week’s whipsmart release of a Realtree Camo men’s collection, modelled by Post Malone, was no different (and coincided nicely with my story on Heartland Drag—thanks, Kim!).
And while I was considering, for a moment, picking up one of the hoodies, I realized that … there are better versions on vintage sites like Depop and Grailed. Take this sweatshirt. I’m sure the Skims one is great, but this one strikes me as more authentic, more dynamic, more true. It allows me my fix while avoiding the Kardashian-Jenner Industrial Complex that, I think, is an overall net-negative for our world. Just a little peace of mind that makes it that much easier to take this baby and add 2 cart.
I am experimenting with affiliate links, but these are all things that I honestly, truly, swear-to-God want to buy.
LOLed a few times
Did you know that within the first year of moving to NYC, I went through a wild interview process to be Jim Moore's assist? This was back in... 2013? Memories.